470 Part 5 Sewing Techniques Main Headings Supporting Details Summary • Staystitching and directional stitching help to maintain the shape of the garment. • Darts provide shape and fullness to a garment so it fi ts the curves of the body. • Most seams used in clothing construction are plain seams. These seams may need a seam fi nish to prevent the edges from raveling. Other types of seams are the topstitched, fl at-fell, welt, and French seams. • In some garment areas, a regular seam allowance is too bulky. Eliminate this bulk by trimming, grading, and clipping seams. • Facings are used to cover raw edges in a garment such as at the armholes, neckline, or other garment openings. Facings may be extended from the garment piece, separate fi tted or shaped pieces, or a strip of bias fabric. • A wide variety of interfacing fabrics are available. A heavier weight interfacing gives a crisp look whereas a lighter weight gives a softer look. • Zippers come in all lengths, weights, styles, and colors. Two common methods for attaching zippers are centered and lapped. • Hemming is one of the last steps in sewing a garment. It should be smooth, even, and almost invisible on the outside of the garment. • A variety of fasteners are used to close garments. These include buttons, hooks and eyes, snaps, and hook-and-loop tape. Each can be used alone or in combination with other fasteners. Some are both serviceable and decorative. • Good pressing techniques are as important as good sewing techniques. A carefully constructed garment will look better if you press as you sew. Graphic Organizer Create a T-chart. In the left column, list the main headings in the chapter. In the right column, list the supporting details for each heading. Review the Facts 1. What should you do to make sure the thread will not be pulled out of the needle when you start to sew? 2. What is backstitching? When would you use it? 3. Why is staystitching done? 4. Explain the difference between the appearance of easing and gathering. 5. How do you prevent a pucker from forming at the end of a dart? 6. Which seam would you use for a sheer fabric that ravels easily? 7. Press seam open. Turn the edges under ¼ inch. Stitch close to fold. These are the directions for the _____ seam fi nish. 8. Contrast clipping and notching. 9. What is the purpose of understitching? 10. What are three types of interfacing? On what type of fabric would you use each? 11. Name two reasons for using interfacing. 12. Which zipper application, centered or lapped, would you use for a side seam? 13. Which hem fi nish could you use on a shirt or blouse that will be tucked into another garment? 14. The blind stitch is often used to secure a hem. Explain how it is done.