Chapter 24 Sewing Equipment
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Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
The Sewing Machine
Since Elias Howe patented his sewing machine in 1846, sewing machines
have had many changes in shape and features. The latest change has been the
addition of computer technology. Thread tension, stitch length, and buttonhole
size can be automatically set. Many more stitches are often available.
If you have ever sewn a seam by hand, you can appreciate the effi ciency
of a sewing machine. It is a complex piece of machinery. Before you sew, you
should learn how the machine you will use works. Different models and brands
vary in some ways. They may thread differently. Some may have special fea-
tures. Regardless of the model you use, you must know some basics: threading,
starting, controlling the speed, backstitching, and stopping at the desired spot.
The Parts of the Sewing Machine
In order to learn how to operate a sewing machine, it helps to have a basic
knowledge of its parts. Figure 24-11 shows the head of a sewing machine. The
head holds many moving parts that help the machine operate.
There are many makes and models of sewing machines. The following are
the main parts of most sewing machines. Locate these parts on the sewing
machine you will be using.
• Hand wheel (also called the balance wheel) controls movement of the take-
up lever and needle. It turns as the machine runs. You can move the needle
up and down by turning the wheel toward you with your hand.
• Bobbin winder guides the thread when fi lling the bobbin with thread.
• Spool pin holds the spool of thread.
• Presser foot pressure adjustment controls the amount of pressure the
presser foot places against the feed system.
• Stitch width dial controls the width of zigzag stitching. It also positions
the needle for straight stitching.
• Thread guides lead the thread to the needle.
• Bobbin winder tension disc regulates thread tension for bobbin winding.
• Take-up lever controls fl ow of needle thread. It must be at its highest posi-
tion each time you start to sew. If it is not, the thread will be pulled up and
away from the needle as the lever rises and you will have to thread the
needle again. It also must be at its highest position when you end a line of
stitching. If not, you may have diffi culty removing the fabric from under
the presser foot. Some newer machines automatically stop with the take-
up lever in the highest position.
• Face plate swings open for access to movable parts and light on some machines.
• Thread tension dial lets you set the tension for your particular project.
Your fabric, stitch, and thread will determine the tension setting you need.
Some newer machines automatically adjust thread tension.
• Presser foot holds fabric against feed system teeth.
• Feed dog moves fabric under the presser foot.
• Needle plate has ¼ -, ⅜ -, ½ -, ⅝ -, and ¾ -inch width guidelines to help you
sew straight. It also supports the fabric during sewing.
• Needle clamp holds the needle in place.