201 Chapter 9 Nonstructural Panel Repair
Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
The conformable sander is then placed on the
guide and is moved back and forth to shape the body
line. The last of the filler is sanded from the body line
by raising the outer plastic sheets from one end to
the sander. This will allow the sander to reach slightly
deeper into the body line and sand out the very bottom
of the body line. Figure 9-61 shows a contour sander
in use. This particular sander has different surfaces to
match the contours of various body lines.
One common problem when using filler is the pres-
ence of pinholes. Pinholes are air pockets in the cured
filler. Figure 9-62 shows pinholes. Blowing a stream
of compressed air over the cured and sanded filler can
reveal this problem. The air will blow out sanding dust
from the pinholes. Pinholes can be corrected with an
application of putty. Use 180-grit sandpaper to feather-
edge the pinholes before filling. To minimize sanding,
use a razor blade to apply the putty. The sharp edge
of the razor blade will fill the pinhole with putty and
remove the excess. After the putty has cured, the filler
is sanded with 180-grit sandpaper. To prevent prob-
lems, use high-quality filler. Mix it properly and observe
the recommended cure times.
Using Lead Filler
Lead filler was commonly used to repair dents in
vehicles before the invention of body filler. It still has
a place in body repair. Some technicians use lead
filler on a repaired panel edge, such as the edge of a
quarter panel adjacent to a door. The lead filler is less
likely to chip off if the panel edge is hit. Lead filler is
supplied in sticks. The sticks have a lead/tin ratio of
70/30 or 60/40. The 70/30 sticks are more expensive,
but they are easier to apply.
The key to applying lead is learning to control the
heat used to soften the lead stick. Lead that is heated
too much will melt and run off the panel, rendering it
useless. Heat the lead stick just enough to soften it, but
not enough to melt it. The lead stick will change from a
dull silver color to a bright and shiny silver as it melts.
Avoid heating the lead stick to the shiny stage. As with
body filler, do not try to fill areas deeper than 1/8” with
lead, as this simply saves on the cost of materials.
Lead filler application is easier on a horizontal surface
than a vertical surface. On a vertical surface, gravity
is constantly trying to pull the softened lead filler down
and out of the fill area.
W W W W W W W A A A A A A A R R R R R R R N N N N N N N I I I I I I I N N N N N N N G G G G G G G
L Le Le d ad ad is i i s a a t to to ic xi xi c sub su bs bs t ta ta nce nc e. Wear W W ea r loves gl gl ov es
hen wh handli h dl in g l le d ad prod du cts. Wh W he n
melting lead, work in a well-ventilated
area and wear app pp roved resp p iratory y
protective equipment to prevent
inhalation of lead dust or vapors. Wash your hands
thoroughly after handling lead or working in a lead-
contaminated area.
There are five distinct steps in lead filler application:
■ Stripping.
■ Tinning.
■ Heating.
■ Applying.
■ Smoothing.
To begin the lead filling process, remove the paint
from the panel surrounding the area to be filled. The
paint must be removed from the entire area to be
heated. An area at least 5-6 times the size of the fill
area will be heated.
The fill area must be prepared before the lead is
applied. This process is called tinning. During tinning, a
liquid flux is applied to the fill area. The flux cleans the
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Figure 9-61. The conformable sander will easily
reshape a body line.
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Figure 9-62. This cured body filler has numerous
pinholes and scratches.
Pinholes