surfaces are flush. This will keep the transmission
from hanging and damaging the clutch hub splines
or the input shaft.
Caution: Do not use the bellhousing or
transmission case attaching bolts to try to
draw in a binding transmission. This could
bend the clutch disc hub or break the bellhousing or
transmission case ears. Also, the transmission input
shaft could damage the pilot bearing. If the clutch
and pilot bearing are installed correctly, the trans-
mission should slide fully into place by hand.
8. Reconnect the pushrod or cable and return spring
connected to the clutch fork. Then, adjust, repair, or
replace the linkage as outlined earlier in this chapter.
Install any other parts, such as the speedometer cable,
shift linkage, or connector wires.
9. Reinstall the rear drive shaft assembly as detailed in
Chapter 13. If the vehicle has a front drive shaft, install
it now. After the drive shaft or shafts are installed,
ensure all other drive train connections are made.
10. Check the transmission lubricant and add fluid, if
necessary. Reconnect the battery negative cable.
Lower the vehicle and perform a road test. During the
road test, make sure there is no slippage, the clutch
engages and disengages smoothly, and the free play is
correct. Operate the clutch at least 25 times to
properly seat the clutch mating surfaces. Do not over-
heat the clutch during this time.
Front-Engine, Front-Wheel Drive
With a few exceptions, the general clutch installation
procedure for front-engine, front-wheel drive vehicles
duplicates clutch installation for front-engine, rear-wheel
drive vehicles. Drive axles are replaced instead of the drive
shaft assembly. Reinstalling the several variations of front
drive axles is covered in detail in Chapter 15. Also, in the
previous section, substitute references to the transmission
with transaxle. Installing the transaxle is covered in detail
in Chapter 11. On vehicles requiring that the engine also
be removed for clutch replacement, refer to the manufac-
turer’s service manual.
Summary
Clutches can develop problems for many reasons. It
is normal for a clutch to wear out after 50,000 miles
(80,000 km). If a clutch wears out sooner, there may be
another problem that caused premature clutch failure. The
most common cause of early clutch failure is driver abuse.
Clutch problems can be divided into different groups.
The most common clutch problem is slippage. Slippage
occurs when the clutch is engaged but does not transmit
all of the engine power. Slippage can be caused by a worn-
out clutch, improper linkage adjustments, or oil on the
clutch facings. Less common causes are a warped
flywheel, clutch disc, or pressure plate, or worn pressure
plate apply springs. A slipping clutch should be fixed
before excess heat ruins other clutch parts.
Clutch vibration can be caused by loose or unbal-
anced clutch parts. Loose parts usually also cause noise.
Sometimes, what appears to be a clutch vibration is caused
by loose engine mounts, loose clutch mounting bolts, or
excessive crankshaft endplay.
Clutch noises are often caused by defective bearings.
The defective bearing can be isolated by operating the
clutch pedal. Depending on clutch pedal position, the
pilot bearing, throwout bearing, or transmission front
bearing can be at fault. Rattles and knocking noises are
almost always caused by loose parts.
Clutch grabbing is usually caused by oil on the clutch
facings. Other possible causes are glazed clutch facings or
wear and misalignment of the throwout bearing assembly
or clutch fork.
Clutch chatter is similar to grabbing, but it is heard
more than felt. It can be caused by some of the same
defects that cause grabbing. Sometimes chatter is caused
by a buildup of clutch dust on the friction facings.
A pedal that is hard to push may be caused by a
binding condition in the linkage or a throwout bearing that
is sticking on the front bearing retainer hub. A new
pressure plate assembly with excessively stiff springs may
have been installed.
A clutch that does not release may have a defect in
the linkage. Rod-and-lever linkages or cable linkages may
be broken or disconnected. A hydraulic linkage may be
out of fluid. If the linkage checks out, the problem is inside
the clutch assembly. In some cases, the clutch disc may
have welded itself to the flywheel or pressure plate.
All types of clutch linkage have some provision for
adjusting the free play. Free play is measured at the clutch
pedal. The usual free play measurement is between 1″ and
1.5″ (25 mm and 38 mm).
The clutch linkage may need lubrication or repair.
Rod-and-lever linkages may require new bushings or
realignment of linkage parts. Cable linkages may have
problems due to a corroded or kinked cable. The cable
must usually be replaced.
Hydraulic linkages can leak, or the hydraulic lines
can be kinked or swelled shut. Leaks can be spotted by a
visual examination.
Master and slave cylinders can be rebuilt if necessary.
After rebuilding, or whenever the hydraulic system has
been opened, air must be removed from the system. The
process of removing air is called bleeding.
To remove the clutch from a vehicle, other compo-
nents must be removed. In most cases, the drive shaft
assembly or drive axles must be disconnected from the
vehicle. The transmission and clutch housing are then
removed to reach the clutch assembly.
Chapter 7 Clutch Problems, Troubleshooting, and Service 153