rough stage progresses. Valves for individual
fixtures are installed during the finish stage of
plumbing installation.
Having determined the size of pipe
required and the location of valves and water
hammer arrestors, it is necessary to obtain the
water heater, filter, valves, pipe, fittings, and
supplies needed to complete the installation.
The sketch in Figure 20-1 can be used to
prepare a list of materials. In some cases, the
plumber may have the components with them
based on an estimate prepared in the process of
obtaining the job. Once the components are at
the job site, work can begin.
Connecting to the
Meter Yoke
If more than one person is working on the
job, it may be helpful to divide the tasks. One
person can begin installing the water filter and
extend the 3⁄4″ pipe to the underside of the floor
frame, while others place the water heater in
position. Once these tasks are completed, one
or two people can install the 3⁄4″ pipe to the
water heater and 1⁄2″ pipe to hose bibb B, while
others work on the kitchen/laundry pipe and
fittings. A third team could simultaneously
begin working on the bathrooms.
One of the first tasks is to locate the water
heater. It needs to be in a position that allows
the pipe from the meter to be connected to the
inlet with as few fittings as practical.
Manufacturer’s instructions should be followed
regarding bricks or other supports to raise the
water heater tank above the concrete floor. The
water heater needs to be plumb and solidly
supported at the base. The drain valve must be
positioned so that it is easily accessible.
The water meter is generally installed at the
point where the building water supply pipe
extends through the foundation wall. The meter
yoke may have been installed when the connec-
tion to the water main was made (see Chapter 15).
If not, it needs to be installed now. Once the
meter yoke is in place, the water filter can be
installed, Figure 20-2. Most canister type water
filters have internal iron pipe thread connec-
tions. Therefore, MIPT (male iron pipe thread)
adapters are required for the
3/4″
pipe connec-
tion to both the inlet and the outlet of the filter
housing. The filter housing should be joined to
the
3/4″
cold water pipe with unions,
so the filter can be replaced without cutting
the pipe. If a valve is installed at the inlet of the
filter housing, it should be a ball valve, so
it will cause little water flow resistance when it
is open.
Next, decide where the
3/4″
vertical pipe will
be located, so it can be extended to the water
heater with the least number of fittings. Hold
the filter near the outlet of the meter yoke to
determine if the filter can be connected to the
meter yoke with a straight run of pipe. If not,
two 45° ells and a short length of pipe can be
installed to run the pipe far enough from the
foundation wall for the filter to be installed.
Temporarily install the adapters in the filter
housing. Lay the filter, unions, and valve on the
floor in the same order they are to be installed,
then measure the total length. Compare this to
the distance between the outlet of the meter
yoke and the 90° ell at the base of the vertical
3/4″
pipe. If there is not enough space, it may be
necessary to omit the unions or install the filter
at a right angle to the foundation wall. The
second option, if used, will result in the vertical
3⁄4″ pipe being farther from the foundation wall.
Once the layout is decided, lengths of pipe can
be cut and joined with appropriate fittings.
Face-to-face measurements plus the fitting
allowances will give the pipe lengths.
The joints for these components can now be
made permanent. The procedures for joining
pipe and fittings depend upon the type of
material being installed. Refer to the appro-
priate section of this chapter for additional
information. Threaded adapters will require
Teflon™ tape or pipe joint cement to ensure
watertight connections.
From the outlet of the filter piping, a
3/4″
pipe should extend vertically to the underside
Chapter 20 Installing Water Supply Piping
349