Chapter 19 Installation and Troubleshooting of Domestic Refrigerators and Freezers
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and condensation or mold on the gasket. To check for a
faulty gasket, a slip of paper is placed between the door
and cabinet, and then the door is closed. The slip of
paper should be held tightly by the closed door. If the
paper can be pulled out easily, the gasket does not form
a tight enough seal. In some cases, the hardware (latch
and hinges) can be adjusted to obtain a better seal. In
other cases, the gasket may have become inflexible or
broken and must be replaced.
Replacement gaskets are specific to the refrigera-
tor make and model. However, universal repair kits
are available, Figure 19-7. The kit includes a roll of
magnetic strip and four lengths of gasket material with
preformed corners. The gasket material can be easily
cut to the size needed.
While removing an old door gasket, place the
replacement gasket in warm water for a few minutes
to make it pliable. Gaskets are often held in place by
a metal strip (retainer) attached to the door. In these
cases, lift the inside edge of the old gasket and slightly
loosen the screws to remove the old gasket. With
the old gasket removed, start at one of the door’s top
corners, slide the edge of the new gasket behind the
retainer. Lightly tighten the retainer screws. Note the
position of the door in relationship to the refrigerator
cabinet. If the door is sagging or too high, loosen the
hinges and realign the door.
Pro Tip
Door Liner
The interior liner for the door can be replaced on
older style doors that used blanket insulation. Newer
foamed doors do not have replaceable liners..
Mullion Heater Failure
Many refrigerators with a separate freezer com-
partment door have an electric heater around the door
opening. This electric heater is also known as a mullion
heater. It keeps ice and moisture from forming. If this
heater is not working, ice buildup may keep the door
from closing properly. Moisture can then enter and col-
lect on the evaporator. Refer to the unit’s wiring dia-
gram to determine whether or not the unit is equipped
with a door heater.
Defrost System Failure
An automatic defrost system should prevent exces-
sive frosting of the evaporator. If an automatic defrost
is not working properly, ice may build up on the evapo-
rator, greatly reducing the evaporator’s efficiency.
Manual Defrost
Chest type freezers and nonautomatic defrost
upright freezers require manual defrosting. To manually
Door Li ner ReReplacementlacementp
T he interior liner for the door can be replaced on
older sty le d oors that use d blanket insulation. N ewer
foamed doors do not have replaceable liners
Troubleshooting Chart—Domestic Ice Makers
Trouble Common Cause Remedy
Cube produced by
ice maker is too
small.
1. Ice mold not correctly mounted.
2. Insuffi cient water delivery.
3. Faulty water valve switch.
1. Check that mold is in a level position.
2. Check supply water pressure and strainer
for restrictions.
3. Check electrical contacts and operation.
Automatic ice maker
will not start cycle.
1. No power to ice maker.
2. Ice level indicator signal arm stuck in
up position.
3. Ice maker motor shorted or burned out.
1. Check voltage to ice maker.
2. Check for obstruction blocking signal arm
movement.
3. Check voltage to motor and motor operation.
Automatic ice maker
does not fi ll with
water.
1. Insuffi cient fl ow or no fl ow of water
to unit.
2. Ice level indicator signal arm stuck
in up position.
3. Ice maker motor shorted or burned out.
1. Check main water supply fl ow. Clean all strainers.
2. Check for obstruction blocking signal arm
movement.
3. Check voltage to motor and motor operation.
Automatic ice maker
does not complete
cycle.
1. Faulty ice level indicator.
2. Cube heater or thermostat faulty.
1. Check for obstructions blocking signal arm
movement. Test continuity of ice level indicator
switch.
2. Check resistance of heater. Jump out thermostat.
Goodheart-Willcox Publisher
Figure 19-6. Common problems of domestic ice makers.