452 Part 5 Sewing Techniques To clip, use the tips of sharp shears. Cut to within ⅛ inch of the seam line, but not through it. If you have staystitched the seam, clip to the staystitching. Clip every ¼ inch to ½ inch depending on the sharpness of the curve. When a seam curves inward, use the tips of your shears to clip straight into the seam allowance, allowing the seam to curve without puckering. Necklines, armholes, and waistlines are inward curves. When a seam curves outward, use the notching process—with the tips of your shears clip V-shaped sections from the seam allowance without cutting through the stitching. See 26-16. When the seam is turned, the remaining notches will come together to make a fl at, even seam. Rounded collars and pockets are outward curves. Facings Facings cover the raw edges in a garment such as at the armholes, neckline, or other garment openings. In addition to covering the raw edge, facings add some fi rmness to the open areas and keep them from stretching out of shape. They do not usually show on the right side of the garment. There are three main types of facings: extended, fi tted, and bias. See 26-17. • Extended facing. An extended facing is cut as part of a garment piece. The facing part is then folded to the inside. Front or back openings often use an extended facing. Your pattern will indicate when a facing is an extended one. • Fitted facing. A fi tted facing, or a shaped facing, is cut the same shape as the raw edge of the garment and is a separate pattern piece. Stitch the facing to the matching garment edge and turn it to the inside of the garment. • Bias facing. Another type of facing is a bias facing. This is a narrow strip of bias fabric you stitch to the edge that requires a facing. Necklines, armholes, and other gently curved edges often have bias facings. You can cut bias strips of fabric or purchase ready-made bias tape in a matching color. After attaching the narrow facing to the garment edge, the free edge is hand stitched or topstitched to the garment. Stitching the Facing The fi rst step in constructing a fi tted facing is to sew the facing pieces together. Then fi nish the outer free edges to prevent raveling. There are several ways to fi nish the edges, depending on the weave and weight of the fabric. Use the following guidelines: • Clean fi nish. Light to medium-weight fabrics can use clean fi nish. To clean fi nish the facing edge, fi rst staystitch ¼ inch from the raw edge. Then fold the edge of the facing under along the line of stitching. Stitch again close to the folded edge. 26-15 Grading seams means cutting each seam allowance to a different width. As illustrated, grade and clip sharp corners. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher 26-16 Clip straight into inward curves. Clip V-shaped sections out of outward curves. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher