Chapter 26 Basic Sewing Skills 453 • Pinked fi nish. If the fabric does not ravel easily, a pinked edge will offer an attractive fi nish. Machine stitch the facing edge ¼ inch from the unnotched edge. Trim the edge with pinking shears. • Overcast fi nish. On heavy fabrics that ravel easily, overcast the raw edge either by hand or by machine. Attaching the Facing To attach the facing to the garment, fol- low these steps: 1. Pin the right sides together matching notches and seams. 2. Stitch the facing to the garment. Backstitch at the beginning and ending of the seam to secure the stitches. 3. Trim, grade, and clip the seam as needed. 4. Press the seam toward the facing. 5. Understitching the seam gives the edge a crisp fi nish and prevents the facing from rolling to the outside. Understitching is a row of stitching you sew close to the seam line through the facing and the seam allowances. When understitching, sew on the right side of the facing, keeping the seam allowances toward the facing. Pull the fabric slightly on either side of the seam line as you sew, 26-18. 6. Turn the facing to the inside and press. 7. Fasten or tack the free edge of the facing to the seam allowances with hand stitches. A quicker option is to stitch-in-the-ditch on the outside of the garment. Using short machine stitches, stitch directly into the well of the seam through all layers of fabric. Interfacing Interfacing is a layer of fabric between the garment and the facing. It adds body and fi rmness to the outer fabric. It also prevents stretching and provides extra reinforcement. You will use interfacing in collars, cuffs, lapels, facings, and waistbands, and in areas of such stress as under buttons and around but- tonholes. See 26-19. Interfacing gives garments a better appearance and makes them more durable. A wide variety of interfacing fabrics are available. Consider the look you want to achieve. A heavier-weight interfacing gives a crisp look whereas a lighter weight gives a softer look. As a general rule, choose an interfacing that is a little lighter in weight than your garment fabric. A B C 26-17 The three types of facings are (A) extended, (B) fi tted, and (C) bias. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher Facing Garment Understitching Clean-finished edge 26-18 Understitching the facing to the seam allowances helps to hold the facing in place. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher