456 Part 5 Sewing Techniques Place the zipper face down on the seam allowance. Match the bottom stop of the zipper to the start of the basting stitches. One side of the zipper’s coil should lie just next to the seam line. Pin in place. See 26-22. 7. Machine baste from bottom to top, stitching through the zipper tape and the seam allowance only. When you sew next to the pull tab, tilt the tab to make the zipper tape lie fl at against the fabric. Remove the pins as you sew. 8. Adjust the zipper foot so it is to the left of the needle. Place the other side of the zipper’s coil on the seam line. Pin in place, 26-23. 9. Baste from bottom to top, stitching through the zipper tape and the other seam allowance, removing the pins as you sew. 10. Close the zipper. Set the stitch control at 10 to 12 stitches per inch. Move the zipper foot to the right side of the needle. 11. Place the garment fl at, with the right side up. Position the zipper foot with the needle to the left side to sew the right side of the zipper. Sew the zipper to the garment, stitching through the garment, seam allowance, and zipper tape. Stitch from the seam line ⅜ inch across the bottom of the zipper. Stop with the needle in the fabric and turn the garment 90 degrees (pivot). Continue stitching the length of the zipper ⅜ inch from the seam line to the top of the zipper. Reposition the zipper foot with the needle on the right side. Stitch the left side of the zipper in the same way, 26-24. Machine baste line Bottom stop Inside Seam allowance Inside Machine baste line In s i de Machine baste lin e 26-22 Machine baste the zipper tape to the seam allowance only. Talon, Inc. 26-23 The second row of stitches attaches the other side of the zipper tape to the seam allowance only. Talon, Inc. Stitch line Outside ⅜″ ″ ⅜″ ⅜ ″ 26-24 For the fi nal step, close the zipper and readjust stitch to regular length. Turn the garment right side up. Beginning at the bottom seam line, stitch across the bottom ⅜ inch, pivot, and stitch through the tape, seam allowance, and garment to the top of the zipper. Talon, Inc.