Chapter 26 Basic Sewing Skills 459 In the back, the hemline should be about ½ inch longer than the top of the shoe. 3. Double-check the length by folding the fabric up at the marked line. Turn it inside the garment, and pin it. Is the hem parallel to the fl oor? Do you like the length? 4. Remove the garment. Move the pins so they are at right angles to the cut edge of the hem. Baste close to the hemline, 26-29. Match the seam lines in the hem to the seam lines in the garment. 5. Decide how wide the hem should be. The pattern pieces suggest a hem width. Use this as a guide. With a ruler or sewing gauge, measure the desired distance up from the hemline, 26-30. Mark the line with tailor’s chalk. 6. Cut along the marked line. Be careful to cut only the extra hem allowance do not cut into the garment. Removing Extra Fullness in Hems When a garment is fl ared, the hem does not lie fl at. The extra fabric puck- ers at the upper edge. This extra fullness must be eased in to fi t fl at against the garment. To ease: 1. Machine baste ¼ inch from the cut edge of the hem. 2. Turn the hem up. Pin the hem to the garment at each seam line. 3. Pick up the bobbin thread with a pin. Pull up gently to slightly gather the fabric on both sides, 26-31. Repeat this several times, until all extra fullness is gathered and spread evenly around the garment. The hem will look smoother if you remove some of the gathered fullness by shrinking. Do this with steam. To shrink: 26-28 Only the pull tab of the invisible zipper can be seen on the outside of the garment. No stitches show. Jack Klasey 26-29 To hold the hem in place, insert pins at right angles to the cut edge of the hem. Baste close to the hemline. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher 26-30 Mark the width of the hem with tailor’s chalk. Cut off the extra fabric. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher