458 Part 5 Sewing Techniques 6. With the right side up, sew across the bottom of the zipper from the seam line and out ⅜ inch. Stop and turn the garment 90 degrees and stitch up the side of the zipper ⅜ inch from the seam line to the top of the zipper, 26-27. Stitch through the zipper coil, seam allowance, and garment. 7. Pull the threads at the bottom of the zipper to the wrong side. Tie a knot to secure them. 8. Remove the basting stitches. The fl y front zipper is a variation of the lapped zip- per. The difference is that the seam allowance is extra wide for the fl y front zipper to allow for a larger lap. If your pattern calls for a fl y front zipper, the guide sheet will give complete directions. Invisible Zippers From the right side of a garment, an invisible zip- per looks like a regular seam. The pull tab is the only clue to the zipper placement. See 26-28. Sew invisible zippers in an open seam. Sew the rest of the seam after the zipper is in place. To attach this type of zipper, follow the steps in the zipper pack- age. Invisible zippers require a special zipper foot. You can buy this foot where you purchase the zipper. Hems When all other construction steps are done, press the garment and let it hang for a day. This will give it time to stretch to its fi nal shape. Then it will be ready to hem. A hem produces a fi nished edge on a garment. Hemming is one of the last steps in sewing a garment, but it is one of the most important. Whether the hemline is above the knee or at the ankles, it should be smooth, even, and almost invisible. Marking a Hem Try on the garment with the undergarments and shoes you will wear with it. Also, wear jackets and belts if they will be a part of the fi nished outfi t. Follow these steps to mark the hem: 1. Stand in front of a long mirror, and test several different lengths. When you decide on the length that is best for you, mark it with a pin. 2. Mark the hem location. Use a skirt marker, yardstick, or meterstick. The easiest way to mark an even hem on a dress or skirt is to have someone help you. As you stand still looking straight ahead, the other person can move around you. Measure up from the fl oor to the desired hemline. Place pins parallel to the fl oor and about 3 inches apart. For pants, fold under at the top of the shoe in the front. The hem edge should just touch the shoe. ⅜″ Outside Stitch line 26-27 Spread the garment fl at with the right side up and the zipper facing the feed dogs of the machine. Beginning at the seam line at the zipper bottom, stitch ⅜ inch across the bottom, pivot, and up the side of the zipper, stitching through all layers. Bring the thread ends to the underside and tie. Talon, Inc.