462 Part 5 Sewing Techniques Securing Hems After fi nishing the hem edge of the garment, you are ready to secure the hem edge to the garment. You can do this by using hand stitches, machine stitches, or fusing. When sewing hems by hand, no stitches show on the right side of the garment. Machine stitching is fast and easy. Use it for more casual wear, on knits, or when you desire a decorative machine stitch. Quilting—an Outlet for Creativity As people look for ways to creatively fi ll their leisure time, many have found a renewed interest in quilting. Quilts are most often used as warm covers for beds. Other uses include wall hangings, tote bags, place mats, and vests. Quilting is the joining together of two layers of fabric and an in-between layer of padding with stitches. The stitching, which is both decorative and functional, can be done by hand or machine. The top layer of the quilt is often made with patchwork—the sewing together of cloth of various colors and shapes to form a quilt top. The top layer can also be made of one piece of fabric with a printed design on it, or a design may be appliquéd to the upper fabric. If a solid color fabric is used, the rows of stitches create a pattern in the quilt. Parallel rows of stitching form a geometric design. The inner layer, called batting, is often polyester fi berfi ll, down, or cotton. Polyester fl eece can also be used. This inner layer gives warmth to the quilt. The bottom layer, called the lining or backing, is usually one piece of fi rmly woven fabric. If a quilt is to be sewn by hand, as they were traditionally made, the three layers of the quilt are often stretched on a quilting frame. Quilting begins in the center and proceeds outward. Small stitches are made through all layers. Handmade quilts are treasured more because of the time it takes to make them. They are also more expensive than those made by machine. Antique quilts can be very valuable heirlooms. Quilting can also be done by machine. Most people who do quilting today sew the quilts by machine. The newest sewing machines offer many features that make the repetitive actions quick and easy to do. Special presser feet help keep the layers of fabric from sliding when stitched. If you plan to use a pattern for a garment or accessory, quilt the fabric before cutting out the pattern sections. Quilting reduces the size of the fabric. Follow these steps when machine quilting: 1. Press the top and back fabrics. 2. Layer the fabrics beginning with the backing fabric. Place them on a fl at surface right side down. Then place the fi ller fabric on top. Finally, place the top fabric over the fi ller with the right side of the fabric facing up. 3. Hand-baste all layers together from the center outward to prevent the layers from shifting. Use long, loose stitches. 4. Set your machine stitch length at 6 to 8 stitches per inch and reduce the pressure on the presser foot. If you have a walking presser foot, the layers will be less likely to shift while sewing. 5. If you are following a design, begin sewing in the center of the project and work outward. 6. If you are making parallel rows of stitching, work from one side to the other. Mark one line along the edge of the fabric and stitch on this line. Then—using a quilting attachment as a guide—stitch the remaining rows an equal distance apart. Trends Making News