464 Part 5 Sewing Techniques the right, close to the hem edge. Take the next stitch in the hem so that the stitches form an X. Continue, alternating stitches between the garment and the hem, keeping the stitches fairly loose. Machine-Stitched Hems You can secure hems in other ways. Some sewing machines are equipped to sew a blind stitch. Check your machine’s manual, and follow its directions. A double-fold hem is a machine-stitched hem made with two folds of fabric of equal depth. The cut edge is in the crease of the outer fold. One or two rows of stitches show on the right side of the garment. It works best on straight edges where there is no excess fullness. To make a double-fold hem, turn under the hem at the desired length and press. Trim to one inch from the fold. Unfold the edge and turn the raw edge in to meet the pressed fold. Press this fold. Then refold the edge, forming the double-fold hem. Stitch along the inner fold and edge stitch on the outer fold. Fused Hems You can also use a fusible material to secure hems. The heat of an iron causes it to melt and bond the hem to the garment. This method is quick and easy, but you need to take some special precautions when using it. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions. Read the care label to be sure you can clean it the same way you clean the garment. Check to see that the garment is the right length this type of hem is permanent. Test a piece of the fusible material on fabric scraps to avoid any problems later. The material should bond the two fabrics together completely. It should not change the color or texture of the fabrics. Do not let the iron touch the fusible material. Once it melts onto the iron, it is diffi cult to remove. When you are ready to bond the hem, use a press cloth to protect the garment from the heat of the iron. Place fusible web between the hem and the garment about ¼ inch below the top edge of the hem. Pin in place. Press lightly between the pins to hold the layers in place. Remove the pins and cover with a press cloth. Then press a small section at a time until the hem is secure. Fasteners A variety of fasteners are useful to close garments, 26-35. These include buttons, hooks and eyes, snaps, and hook-and-loop tape. Use each alone or in combination with other fasteners. Some are both serviceable and decorative. Your pattern will recommend the type of fastener to use. Many times the choice depends on whether the opening edges are to meet or to overlap. 26-35 The fasteners used on this jacket are both serviceable and decorative. Butterick Company, Inc.