Chapter 26 Basic Sewing Skills 465 Buttons and Buttonholes Buttons and buttonholes have been used to close garments for many cen- turies. Buttons are not only functional, but decorative as well. They come in a wide variety of materials and colors. You can use buttons and buttonholes when the opening to be secured overlaps. Before sewing buttons in place, always make the buttonholes. Buttonholes are usually on the right front side for female garments. For male clothing, but- tonholes are on the left front side. There are three types of buttonholes: • Bound buttonhole. In a bound buttonhole, the edges are fi nished with fabric. Bound buttonholes give tailored garments a custom-made appear- ance. They are made in the garment before the facing is attached. • Machine-worked buttonhole. In a machine-worked buttonhole, the edges are worked over with thread using a zigzag stitch machine. They are made after the garment is constructed. Machine-worked buttonholes are used for most items of clothing and are especially durable. • Hand-worked buttonhole. In a hand-worked buttonhole, the edges are worked over with thread using a buttonhole stitch. They are used on very loosely woven and lightweight fabrics. Marking for Buttons and Buttonholes Transfer the markings for buttonholes from the pattern piece to the outside of the garment. The markings should be accurate and follow the grain of the fabric. Be sure that the marking method that you use does not leave a perma- nent mark on your garment. Consider using machine basting, hand basting, or tailor’s chalk for this task. Mark the location and length of each buttonhole. The length of the buttonhole depends on the size of your buttons. Measure both the diameter and the thickness of the button. The total of these two mea- surements is the length you should make your buttonholes. Once you sew the buttonholes, you can determine the placement of the but- tons. Pin the garment closed. For a horizontal buttonhole, push a pin through the buttonhole ⅛ inch from the outer end. For a vertical buttonhole, push a pin through ⅛ inch below the top of the buttonhole. Attach the buttons where the pins enter the fabric. Machine-Worked Buttonholes Most buttonholes are made by machine. On some machines, you can make buttonholes by adjusting the zigzag stitch. Other sewing machines have a built-in buttonhole setting and a special buttonhole presser foot. Follow the directions provided with your machine for making buttonholes. Always make a sample buttonhole on a scrap of fabric before making one on your garment. Be sure to use the same number of layers of fabric and interfacing as your garment. Use small, sharp scissors to slash open the fi nished buttonholes. Begin in the center and cut toward each corner, carefully using the tip of your scissors. A pin inserted at each end of the buttonhole will keep you from cutting too far.