443 Reading with Purpose Take time to reread sentences or paragraphs that cause confusion or raise questions. Rereading will clarify content and strengthen your understanding of key concepts. At this point, you know that a sewing machine is a fi ne, delicate piece of machinery. You are ready to use it carefully and skillfully. A quick review of terms will remind you that stitches hold two pieces of fabric together. A row of stitches forms a seam. The usual seam allowance, or width between the fabric edge and the seam, is ⅝ inch, 26-1. Machine Stitching Techniques Before you start to sew, pull the spool and bob- bin threads out about 5 inches behind the presser foot. This prevents the tangling and knotting of thread at the beginning of the seam. Is the take-up lever at its highest point? If not, the thread will pull out of the needle as you start. Chapter Objectives After studying this chapter, you will be able to • operate the sewing machine properly. • construct darts and seams. • apply various seam fi nishes to seams. • demonstrate how to trim, grade, and clip seams. • summarize how to apply facings and interfacings. • describe how to apply various types of fasteners and zippers. • demonstrate how to mark, fi nish, and secure a hem. • demonstrate pressing techniques. Key Terms seam seam allowance backstitching staystitching directional stitching basting easing gathers darts seam fi nish trimming grading clipping notching facings clean fi nish understitching stitch-in-the-ditch hem double-fold hem bound buttonhole machine-worked buttonhole hand-worked buttonhole Seam 5/8 in. seam allowance 26-1 Notice the relationship between a seam and a seam allowance. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher