444 Part 5 Sewing Techniques Place the fabric under the presser foot. Keep most of the fabric to the left of the needle so you can see the seam guides on the throat plate. The fabric edges should line up with one of the seam guides. For instance, if you are sewing a ⅝ -inch seam, the fabric edges should lie exactly on the ⅝ -inch line. Using your right hand, turn the hand wheel and lower the needle into the starting point. Lower the presser foot with your right hand while holding the fabric with your left hand. Start to stitch at a slow, constant speed. Keep both hands lightly on the fabric near the presser foot. Do not push or pull the fabric just guide it. Watch the seam guide, not your line of stitching or the needle, as you sew. When you stop, move the take-up lever to its highest point by turning the hand wheel if your machine does not do this automatically. Then raise the presser foot and pull the fabric to the back. Cut threads, leaving about 3 inches if you need to tie them to prevent the stitches from coming loose. As you sew, remove each pin as the presser foot comes to it. If you hit a pin with the machine needle, the needle or pin could bend or break. It is best to remove pins rather than sewing over them if at all possible. Sometimes you need to turn a corner while stitching, 26-2. To do this, stitch to within ⅝ inch of the corner. Stop. (Many presser feet are ⅝ inch in length so when the front of the foot reaches the edge of the fabric, it is time to stop and turn.) Be sure the needle is down into the fabric. Lift the presser foot. Turn the fabric. Lower the presser foot, and continue to sew. Backstitching Instead of tying threads at the start and end of each seam, you can secure your thread by backstitching. Take three or four stitches forward. Then put your machine in reverse and carefully sew back- ward, directly over the other stitches. Then sew forward again. This locks your stitches so the seam will not pull apart. 26-2 To turn a corner, insert the needle into the garment. Raise the presser foot, and turn the garment. Lower the foot and sew. Goodheart-Willcox Publisher