104 Successful Sewing 4
• Sometimes a layout diagram will show two
pattern pieces with the same number. This
indicates that the pattern piece will have to
be cut out twice, such as when you need four
cuff pieces. The pattern will only include one
pattern piece. Therefore, simply relocate the
pattern piece and cut it out a second time.
• Avoid placing pattern pieces on the selvage
edges of the fabric. Selvages do not give
and can cause seams to pucker. If you must
place a piece on the selvage, clip the selvage
about every ½ ½ inch to create more give.
• When you are cutting two layers of fabric,
the pattern pieces do not have to be placed
printed side up. If you are cutting one layer,
however, the pattern pieces must be placed
printed side up. They must also be placed on
the right side of the fabric. Otherwise, you
may find that pattern pieces fit the wrong side
of your body.
• Be sure to use the “with nap” layout when
working with napped fabrics. (Refer to
Lesson 2, “The Pattern Envelope,” for more
information on napped fabrics.) Also use this
layout when working with knits, as most knits
tend to have shading in one direction. If this
layout is not followed, differences in color
may appear on the finished garment. You
can also use this layout when working with
fabrics that do not have nap. However, “with
nap” layouts usually require more yardage.
Placing Pieces
on the Fold
Check for pattern pieces that must be placed
on the fabric fold. When cutting out these pieces,
never cut along the folded edge.
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