Lesson 8 5 105
Accurate measuring will help you make sure
your pattern pieces are cut out on-grain. Follow
these steps:
1. Place each pattern piece so the grainline
arrow runs lengthwise on the fabric. Grainline
arrows should run parallel to the selvage
edges regardless of the way the fabric has
been folded.
2. Pin one end of the grainline arrow to hold it
in place.
3. Measure from the pinned end of the arrow to
the fabric selvage edge.
4. Now measure from the other end of the grain-
line arrow to the fabric selvage edge. Make
sure it is the same distance from the selvage
as the end you have already pinned in place.
Adjust the distance if necessary and then pin
the arrow in place.
5. Pin the edges of the pattern piece in place.
The lengthwise grain on knits is seen as a
rib. Use this rib to place pattern pieces on the
straight of grain.
Special techniques are used when placing
pattern pieces on off-grain fabrics that cannot
be straightened. For solid color fabrics or fabrics
with an all-over design, lay the fabric so that the
selvages are together. Make sure the lengthwise
fold lies smoothly. (You will not be able to line up
the cut ends of the fabric.) Then measure from
the grainline arrows to the selvages as described
above. For off-grain fabrics with a stripe, plaid, or
obvious horizontal design, ignore the lengthwise
grain. Instead, follow the print as much as pos-
sible. Cut the pattern pieces out of a single layer
of fabric. Match the design of the second piece
with the first.
Placing Pieces
On-Grain
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