287 7
Objectives
This lesson will help you stitch seams and finish seam edges. You will apply the
following, previously acquired skills:
Lesson 5: Reading the Instruction Sheet
Lesson 11: Operating the Sewing Machine
Lesson 12: Pressing As You Sew
Lesson 14: Seams
Lesson 15: Clipping, Notching, Trimming, and Grading
Lesson 16: Seam Finishes
Helps for Success
Well-constructed seams are the most basic part of any garment. For seam and seam finish
see a Ot gu se sea a g va a riatio at o ns, s, see Lesso esso ns s 14 a nd d 16 6 . Ot he e r gu ide de lines es fo o r se wing g sea ms s a re e g ive e n he e re e.
Pin Basting
Seams
The seam should be pinned before stitching.
Match the ends of the seam and all notches. Pin
the layers together.
Place the pins at right angles to the seam so
that they may be easily removed during stitching.
Remove pins before sewing over them.
Adding Stretch
to Seams
Some seams will need to have more give. For
instance, when sewing on knit fabric, seams should
stretch with the fabric. Always test your stitching on a
fabric scrap to see if it is strong enough to withstand
any stress applied.
Sergers provide excellent stretch stitches.
However, the following conventional sewing machine
stitches also provide stretch: narrow zigzag, multiple
stitch zigzag, straight stretch, overcast stretch, or serge
(pine) stitch.
If you must use a straight stitch, some stretch
may be added by gently pulling on the fabric in front
of and behind the machine needle. Be sure you allow
the fabric to feed under the machine foot as you pull
gently. Test this method on your fabric because it
may cause the seam to pucker.
Seams ru Constructing
Lesson
25
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