288 Successful Sewing 8
Directional
Stitching
Seams should be stitched with the grain
of the fabric. On an edge that has already
been staystitched, seams may be sewn in any
direction. This is because the area has already
been stabilized. (For instance, the neck seam
may be stitched in any direction.)
With napped or pile fabrics, stitch with the
nap even if it is against the grain.
When you are unsure of the direction to
stitch, a good rule is to stitch similar seams or
seams that will be sewn together in the same
direction. For instance, stitch all pant leg seams
from the bottom to the top.
Stabilizing
Seams
Stabilizing seams is especially useful on
knit fabrics and in garment areas where greater
stability is needed. Such areas include shoulder,
armhole, neckline, crotch, and waistline seams.
To stabilize the seam, stitch narrow hem tape,
twill tape, or sheer stay tape into the seam. Where
some stability and more stretch is desired, as with
knit fabrics, clear stretch elastic may be used.
Matching
Plaids
When stitching seams on plaid fabric, you will
need to carefully match plaids along seamlines.
Four methods can help you do this.
Method 1: pin basting. To match plaids by
pin basting, follow these steps:
1. Pin the layers of fabric together. Make sure
each pin is positioned in a manner that will
line up the plaid on the two layers of fabric.
2. Stitch up to each pin before removing it.
Method 2: fusible thread. To match plaids
using fusible thread, follow these steps:
1. Press one seam allowance under along the
seamline, then open out the fold. With fusible
thread in the top of the machine and regular
thread in the bobbin, stitch on the right side
of the fabric just inside the seam allowance.
Fold seam allowance back to the wrong side.
fusible thread
(Continued)
© Goodheart-Willcox Publisher
© Goodheart-Willcox Publisher